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01/31/2022
Cruising | Cruising areas
Sardinia's Northeast: Pure Caribbean Feeling
Arriving: the location
Sardinia is big: the island is 140 nautical miles long and 75 nautical miles wide. After a circumnavigation of the island, there would be 450 nautical miles in the logbook. So it's better to choose one side of the island and focus your cruising there. And for the majority of people, it's quickly decided: they head for the north-east of the island. The wildly rugged coast, frequented by the rich and famous with their superyachts, together with the offshore islands offer postcard-perfect close-up destinations by the dozen.
But before we focus on this nautical epicentre of Sardinia, let's briefly ask the question: do the other sides of the island really have nothing to offer? Let's start with the west coast, Sardinia's problem child. There are only a few harbours here (some with shallow or even sandy access), and this side of the island is also very exposed to the frequent mistral winds. The southern part of the east coast is flat and, with its kilometre-long sandy beaches and pine forests, almost somewhat monotonous at times. The south coast is completely different: between Sardinia's capital Cagliari and the islands of San Pietro and Sant' Antioco, there are eight harbours and around two dozen anchorages. This area is Sardinia's quiet alternative, ideal for explorers and individualists.
The highlight, however, remains the north-east coast with its countless anchorages and white sandy beaches reminiscent of the Caribbean. Here, one harbour village lies next to the other, and the enchanting islands of the Maddalena archipelago lie suspended in the azure blue sea. The labyrinth of narrow passages, islands and bays offers plenty of variety in the smallest of spaces. And if you cross the nearby Strait of Bonifacio, you will find many more destinations on the south coast of Corsica. In short: Yes, the north-east coast is rightly Sardinia's absolute number one in the coastal ranking!
Driving off: the challenge
However, the north-east is considered a demanding cruising area. One reason for this is the incredible number of islands and rocks that lie like confetti off the coast. This minefield of stones above and below the water holds plenty of dangers. In no other area in the world do charter companies have so many problems with severe structural damage due to groundings. The good news, however, is that if you navigate carefully, keep an eye on the very good chart material and avoid shortcuts, you will have no problems.
The prevailing winds also make Sardinia a bit of a challenge. Compared to other destinations in the Mediterranean, it often blows stronger here. Especially in the Strait of Bonifacio, where the winds whistle between the very high coasts of Corsica and Sardinia, and sometimes stormy Mistrals blow in from the Gulf of Lyon across to Sardinia. In addition to this, there is a constant thermal wind here in the northeast during the summer’s high pressure, which sometimes blows from the south or southeast with up to five gusts during the day. Sailors who have only experienced the Mediterranean as a bathtub full of shallows will find their wind here in Sardinia. That's a promise!
Mooring: Ports & Anchorages
The very good infrastructure of harbours and anchorages, on the other hand, make it easy to plan a cruise. Nowhere else on the island is the density of harbours greater than here in the north-east: on the approximately 35 nautical miles between Olbia and the Corsican south coast, there are 20 marinas to choose from. You can moor in Marina Marinella, a charming mini-harbour in a natural bay, or discover vibrant urban life in the town harbour of Maddalena. Of course, a posh port is not to be missed! Porto Cervo flaunts classy boutiques and caters to the mega yacht scene of this coast with its luxury restaurants and hotels. The charming charter port of Portisco or the local ports of Palau or Olbia are much more down-to-earth. A must in this area is the port of Bonifacio in Corsica, with its beautiful natural harbour and its town that’s situated on a limestone cliff!
But now for the bays - and here we really can't avoid the comparison with the Caribbean: there are dozens of dreamlike bays in Sardinia's northeast, all with sand so fine that it could trickle through egg timers. Sometimes populated with a colony of parasols like the bay La Colba at Capo Testa, and sometimes completely lonely like the kilometre-long Porto Liscia. If the mini-bay in front of the famous Tahiti Beach is overcrowded, Cala San Marina remains a relaxed spot even in high season. But there is one thing you should know: The islands of the Maddalena archipelago are a national park, here you have to buy a park ticket and observe a few navigation rules. Otherwise, you can anchor freely anywhere in the area or moor at one of the few buoy fields, which also guarantee beginners a safe overnight stay in a bay.
Porto Cervo, Sardinia
Plan: the cruise options
Almost the entire fleet of available charter ships in Sardinia is located around Olbia in the north-east of the island. If you start your cruise here, the Costa Smeralda must be your first stop, followed by the Maddalena Archipelago and the Strait of Bonifacio. If you follow these destinations in a zigzag course through the islands, you will end up with just over 100 nautical miles in your wake - an ideal distance for a relaxed week's cruise. However, the trip can be extended at any time, with various locations to linger for longer, such as along the well-developed north coast of Sardinia between Capo Testa and the island of Asinara. Five harbour towns and 20 described anchorages make this side of the island a perfect spot for anyone with a desire for more miles. The same applies to the wild west coast of Corsica.
And if the mistral is pushing wave crests onto this side of the island, the west coasts of Corsica and Sardinia offer shelter and yet more great destinations. So, there are plenty of route options, stopovers and day destinations, with harbours and anchorages lined up almost everywhere. Sailors who spend two weeks in the area can also consider the approximately 300-nautical-mile circumnavigation of the islands of Corsica. But if you are sailing in Sardinia for the first time, you don't need much more than the Maddalena archipelago and the many nearby towns, harbours and bays of the rugged north-east coast.
Maddalena-Archipel, Sardinia
Knowledge: Captain's Tip
Crossing: the border Crossing the Strait of Bonifacio, which is only a few nautical miles wide, means switching back and forth between Italy and France. Except for the exchange of the host country flag, this is no problem at all.
Marinas: The harbour facilities are of a good standard (all can also be reached on VHF channel 09) and the staff almost always help with mooring - upmarket mooring prices included.
Getting there Olbia in Sardinia's northeast can also be easily reached by ferry. There are daily connections from Piombino, for example, and the crossing takes about six hours. Olbia airport is also served by flights from across Europe.
Navigation: Once again for safety's sake: the very many stones off the coasts (above and below the water) require particularly attentive navigation!
Currents In the Strait of Bonifacio and in the narrow passages of the Maddalena Islands, there can be clearly noticeable currents depending on the wind.
Highlight: Famous is the anchorage Cala Giorgio Marino, formed by three Maddalena islands and protected all around. Another highlight for many is the Iles Lavezzi next door (but belonging to France), especially the anchorage Cala Lazarina.
Action: The coast is also popular with surfers and kiters due to the wind conditions. In the double bay of Porto Puddo and Porto Liscia you can anchor well, rent equipment and try it yourself.
Parking: fees If you don't buy the ticket for the Maddalena National Park (which costs approximately three euros per metre per day) before arrival (available both online and locally in the marinas), you will pay about 40 percent higher fees at the checkpoint.